+++ 2008 Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Volant Reserve 750 mL

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This wine is the culmination of a Gedankenexperiment begun many years ago, essentially a long-standing meditation on the role of oxidation/reduction in the enhancement of the complexity and life-span of a given wine. The journey began approximately thirty-five years ago when Randall visited Dan Wheeler of Nicasio Cellars in Soquel and tasted wine he had been ageing for decades in glass carboys in his caves; he was struck by how utterly fresh they were. A chance meeting introduced Randall to the wines of Emidio Pepe in Abruzzo, who aged his wines in glass carboy before rebottling into standard format; again, he was struck by the utter freshness of wines that were decades of age. Then, through chance, Randall happened to study at the knee of Patrick Ducourneau, inventor of microbullage, (or micro-oxygenation) and enjoyed deep philosophical discussions (in his rather imperfect French) about the nature of anti-oxidative systems in grapes, the biological arc of wine?s life-span, and the secret life of tannins. Microbullage addresses the early part of the lifecycle of a wine. But the work with the carboys (bonbonnes), deals with wine in its mature and complex phase. What we do is after the Cigare Volant normale has finished malolactic fermentation and the final blend composed, we then add a modest amount of sulfur dioxide (maybe 35 ppm.), bottle the wine up in 5-gallon carboy, seal them up very tightly, and place the bottles on their sides. The lees that repose at the bottom are agitated with a Teflon-coated stir bar inside the bottle through the agency of strong magnets, thus re-suspended.

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